News | Mezzanine

Morocco: Behind the Doors of Wonder

Stella Neethling — Tue, 28 Nov 2023 12:53:47 +0000

Exploring Morocco: Behind the Doors of Wonder

Morocco, often hailed as the "Country of Doors," beckons with promises of enchantment and discovery. Join us on a virtual expedition through the winding streets, bustling medinas, and, most notably, the captivating doors that open the gateway to extraordinary experiences. Our October 2023 tour group embarked on a journey that unfolded like the pages of a mesmerising travelogue.

A Pictorial Prelude

Capturing the essence of Morocco is an art, and our travel companions did just that. Which door spoke to you? Which one whispered tales of untold adventures?

Marrakech: Chaos to Tranquility

Beryl Van Niekerk paints a vivid picture of our day in Marrakech, a city that pulsates with life. The medina, a chaotic tapestry of sights, sounds, and smells, welcomed our curious group. Motorbikes danced through crowded alleys, bicycles chimed their bells, and sellers beckoned us with the treasures of Morocco. Amidst this orchestrated chaos, a large door stood as a gateway to tranquility.

As we stepped through, the busy streets disappeared, replaced by a serene moment in the shadow of the Minaret. Eyes closed, we embraced the calm, momentarily escaping the vibrant frenzy outside. Our guide's voice broke the spell, inviting us to explore further.

Culinary Delights and Alleyway Adventures

Beyond the doors, our journey continued through narrow alleyways, each turn revealing new treasures. Dates, olives, and bread tantalised our taste buds, shared by vendors whose lives were dedicated to these culinary delights. The culmination of our culinary adventure was a shared platter of roasted lamb, bread, and olives—a simple yet mouth-watering meal that left us satiated, reclining in reflection.

Djemaa El Fna Square: A Cultural Spectacle

The afternoon led us to Djemaa El Fna square, an open-air theater of Moroccan culture. Drummers, snake charmers, and fortune tellers transformed the square into a vibrant spectacle. Monkeys squawked while chained to their owners, and umbrella-huddled fortune tellers painted promising futures. It was a sensory immersion into the heart of Morocco.

Jardin Majorelle: A Haven of Cobalt Blue

The day's crescendo unfolded at the Berber Museum within the Jardin Majorelle Garden. The vibrant cobalt blue, strategically infused by Yves Saint Laurent, enveloped us in a different kind of magic. The garden, acquired by Yves Saint Laurent and his partner in 1980, became a canvas preserving the artistic legacy of Morocco.

Looking Ahead to 2024

As the sun set on our day in Marrakech, the promise of more adventures lingered. Our group has decided to return to Morocco in 2024, and we invite you to join us. Imagine exploring Imperial Cities, traversing the High Atlas, and sleeping under the stars in the Sahara Desert—a tapestry of experiences waiting to be woven.

Morocco, with its doors of wonder, invites you to step into a world where each door opens onto a new chapter of discovery. Are you ready to turn the handle and be part of our tale?

The adventure awaits in 2024!

Peru, more than the land of the Inkas

Stella Neethling — Thu, 28 Sep 2023 13:06:31 +0000

By Karien Schoeman

The question I am most often asked is what is my favourite destination of all? The answer would be that it is the latest destination that I have visited, as travel for me is all about living in the moment and experiencing and appreciating the now. I have learned not to compare in any way. Travelling is not just a mere list that has to be ticked off – as the list instead of the experience becomes the goal.

So, for now, Peru is my favourite destination of all.

Peru exceeded every expectation I had. It has an exuberant biodiversity and is the scene of extraordinary culture, colour and cuisine. Indeed, whoever steps on Peruvian soil and journeys across the country, will want to understand present day Peru while looking through the glasses of the past.

Early on in our travels, I learned that we wrongly speak about “The Inkas”. Inka was the title given to the ruler of the Quechua people. He was The Inka, the son of the Sun and had the highest authority. I also learned that according to Quechua spelling rules it is established that words like Inka or Inkan should be spelled with a “k” and not a “c”.

Of the thirteen Inkas that ruled, some like Manqu Qhapaq, Pachakutiq and Atawallpa stand out. Qhapaq (1200 – 1230 AD) was the founder of the Inkan Empire and also of Cusco.Pachakutiq (1438 – 1471 AD), the name means “The World’s Transformer”, is considered the greatest statesman the ancient American world ever delivered. During his rule, Peru had a developing phase unsurpassed until this day. He was also the builder of Machu Picchu, one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World. Sadly, the thirteenth and last Inka, Atawallpa (1525 – 1532 AD) knew about the arrival of the conquistador, Francisco Pizarro. Excessive confidence in himself and everything Inkan, prevented him from blocking their progression and Pizarro eased his way into Peru. The very first encounter between Pizarro and Atawallpamarked the end to the proud Inkan civilization, not only bringing a new order of rule, but infesting the population with unknown diseases like small pocks, killing thousands.

Peru is much more than just the Inkas and Machu Picchu, although I must admit that I teared up at the sight of Machu Picchu – a master blend of human genius and respect towards nature’s harmonious beauty. Peru is also the land of the Andes, Lake Titicaca and of the Amazon forest. Imagine breathing the purest air on earth or seeing a lake so blue that you have the sensation that you are touching the sky. Imagine gigantic trees which have been witnesses of history or canoeing down a river that flows into the mighty Amazon more than 4,000 kilometres away. Peru is Pacha Mama or Mother Earth – giving in abundance. You will find more than 4,000 species of potato, 1,500 species of sweet potato, 55 species of corn and 1,500 species of butterflies. In fact, Peru is one of the biggest producers of so-called ‘super foods’ growing products like quinoa, kiwicha, chia seeds, avocado and a variety of berries.

From la-di-da city restaurants to quaint small-town eateries, we were treated with products of countless cultural blends gifted with the most diverse flavours and colours you can imagine. I can truly say that Peruvian food and wine are exceptional! Flying over the Nasca Lines was a dream come true. The Nasca Lines was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994. Some call it The World’s Largest Astronomical Book. I especially like the legend that these enigmatic images were made by extra-terrestrial giants. Seeing amongst others, the monkey, spider and sacred condor, I still choose not to believe the facts that these giant geoglyphs, some up to 30 kilometres long, were made by an ancient Peruvian culture that lived between 100 and 600 AD. Visiting and staying in the Amazon forest was like a holy experience.

At Puerto Maldonado we boarded a boat and navigated on the Madre de Dios River towards the EcoAmazoniaLodge. At this eco lodge, we did not get the usual muffin or sandwich for snacks, instead there was a bunch of bananas and other forest fruits to take with us in our backpacks. The forest has an ecosystem of its own – replenishing and rejuvenating itself daily. Every day we hiked or rowed to different parts in the forest – in some places the birdsong was so loud, I could not hear what our guide was saying. Learning about the medicinal value of some of the plants, seeing flowers with colours I could never imagine, fungi ranging from intense yellow to fuchsia pink, trees that are so huge, I think they have been standing there since the beginning of time – I can truly say that I am in love with the Amazon forest. We even saw an anaconda and a tarantula…

Our journey to the Sacred Valley, took us through places like Pisac, Chinchero, the Salt Pans of Maras and Moray where Inkan and Colonial influences have reached a perfect balance and created the unique way of life of the local inhabitants. We stayed at an authentic Spanish Hotel that reminded of colonial days gone by.

Cusco, built in the shape of a sleeping puma, is Peru’s historical capital. Colourfully dressed woman leading an alpaca or lama, traditional dancers enticing you to dance along, Peruvian artisan markets with extraordinary fine jewellery, ceramics and textile craftwork, are some of Cusco’s fine products. The pride of all Peruvians in their alpaca, wanaku and vicugna garments is something you will see in all of Peru – alpaca being the best fibre, wanaku even better and vicugna the best of the best fibre on earth. I made sure to buy a handmade Peruvian poncho made from a 100% baby alpaca fibre. I came to love local dishes and drinks like Ceviche, Purple Corn Chicha and Pisco Sours.

On Lake Titicaca, we saw the very peculiar Uros people living on small man-made islands. We voyaged across the lake to the picturesque Taquile Island, a peaceful place where old Quechua traditions live in perfect balance with modernity. What is most interesting about this community is that only the men are allowed to knit the beautiful hand-made articles and garments.

Lima cannot be explained nor described, it is the place where it all comes together, where ancient meets modern – from the Inkas, complete to the changing of the guard at the presidency.

So, why should you go to Peru… or any other destination?

“We travel because we need to. Because distance and difference are the secret tonic to creativity. When we get home, home is still the same, but something in our minds has changed and that changes everything.” - Author unknown

Boundless Mongolia

Stella Neethling — Tue, 19 Sep 2023 09:34:54 +0000

Boundless Mongolia

By Laetitia de Lange

At first, we were disappointed when Live the Journey informed us that 2018 is not the year that they are planning for a guided, 4x4 self-drive tour to Iceland. They suggested Mongolia instead when we enquired about Iceland. None of us even knew where Mongolia is on the map! The only knowledge we had was fromthe series ‘Marco Polo’ that we were watching on Netflix! We decided to open a map and establish Mongolia’s location. We were quite surprised by the size of the country that nestled in between Russia and China. It is the 18th largest country in the world, but listen to this, it is also the most sparsely populated country, with only around three million inhabitants. Definitely not a crowded place. After contemplating for a few days, we decided to be bold and go to Mongolia.

Ulaanbaatar is the capital city of Mongolia and that is where our journey started. Flying to Ulaanbaatar was an exhausting 26 hours, but we were greeted by our friendly guide, Baatar,who assisted us in acquiring our visas at the airport. We were transported to our surprisingly western style hotel, which was about 30 minutes from the airport. On our first night in Ulaanbaatar, we were taken to a restaurant and introduced to some local cuisine. The food was very similar to ours in South Africa, whichinclude different kinds of meat and vegetables. They have a very interesting style of making stir-fry by using two enormous spatulas. What an interesting show to watch.

The next day we visited one of the Buddhist temples in the city to learn more about their religion. Afterwards, we did some quick last-minute shopping before our journey into the wild started. We also received the keys to our Land Cruiser 100-series vehicles. That evening we were entertained by a show of Mongolia’s traditional throat singing, instruments, dancing and contortionists. We were absolutely amazed by this and thoroughly enjoyed watching something completely different than what we are accustomed to. I realised we still had a lot to learn from this country.

Day three and we were all packed and ready to start our self-drive journey. We had a hilarious moment just before we started our journey when hubby and I both climbed into the wrong sides of the vehicle. We forgot that Mongolians drive on the right side of the road. After correcting our mistake, we were off on a wet and cold day.

At first, we were on tarred roads which helped us getting used to driving on the right side of the road while admiring the city, and shortly after, seeing some ‘ger’ accommodations. A ger is the traditional home of Mongols. It looks similar to the ‘rondavels’ in South Africa, but instead is made of wooden mesh, plastic isolation and animal wool. We then proceeded to the south of Ulaanbaatar and began our route on gravel. The open vastness of the country was breath-taking, with green pastures as far as the eye can see. Weheard that Mongolia experienced a higher-than-normal rainfall, which resulted in the landscape being a lot greener than usual, which made our experience even more spectacular.

We saw a lot of domesticated animals, like horses, camels and yaks. They are allowed to roam freely. Large herds of sheep and goats would wash over the hills into the valleys late afternoons to find protection against the elements for the night. We learned that in Mongolia there were more animals than people… three million people versus 60 million animals. There were no border fences to be seen anywhere and we were fascinated by the fact that the nomads were able to live next to each other and share the land with each other’s animals without erecting fences.

Lunch was enjoyed on the lovely green pastures and Baatar enlightened us with some history of Mongolia. Of course, Genghis Khan played an enormous role in putting Mongolia on the map and strengthening the silk route. In his lifetime, he conquered more land than the Roman Empire managed during its entire existence! Our first night was spent in a traditional ‘tourist’ ger. What a wonderful experience. Our round room was spacious, comfy and warm. Gers are so much a part of nomadic Mongolianlife, you have to experience it to connect with the country and its people. The tourist ger camps are upgraded compared to the traditional versions and have communal dining areaswhere buffet meals are served. The ger-camps where we stayed were all located in the most beautiful places.

We started to move westward into the Gobi Desert area and instead of having the normal views of different shades of brown, it was green! The rain certainly turned the landscape intoa totally different view. It was also surprising to smell all the plants and herbs when getting out of our vehicles. From wild onion to juniper and lavender. What a paradise to be in.

We did our first wild camp in the Gobi Desert. What luxury we experienced. Baatar’s team assisted in pitching our rooftop tents and the wonderful cook, Yaganath, made some really amazing Mongolian food from inside her little minivan. We even had dessert. I wish I couldtake her home with me. Even my fussy daughter enjoyed her cuisine. The setting of this luxury wilderness camp was absolutely magical. We felt like the first people ever to camp at this spot. Baatar did not just know about Mongolian traditions, he knew that South Africans enjoy big fires and did not disappoint when we were able to sit around a lovely campfire to keep warm.

We drove through the Gobi Desert for a few days, and although I initially thought that it would consist of dunes only, we drove through different terrains. We had a day or two of rain and it started to get really muddy, but it allowed for lots of fun. We even assisted fellow drivers who got stuck in the mud in the desert! We visited a local nomadic Mongolian family and was hosted inside their ger, tasted horse milk and some scrumptious biscuits.

Not once did we see border fences and even roads were sometimes non-existent. We were allowed to drive wherever we could in the countryside. When passing through towns, I was reminded about the rural areas in our country. The towns were basic, with perhaps one or two small shops, and in some towns, there was only a single fuel pump. The houses were painted in bright colours and very few roads were tarred.

We visited the flaming cliffs where the American explorer, Roy Chapman Andrews, discovered dinosaur eggs and other fossils, a palaeontologist’s paradise. We were even allowed to dig for dinosaur bones. After enjoying ourselves thoroughly as archaeologists, we headed for a small village, Saikhan-Ovoo, in the middle of the Gobi province. Here we visited two monastery ruins. Both of them were destroyed by the communist purges in the late 1930’s.

Next was Karakorum, the first capital city of Mongolia, founded by the grandson of Genghis Khan, Kublai Khan. Here we also visited the biggest waterfall in Mongolia, the Orkhon Waterfall. It is worth mentioning the number of different birds we saw. The keen birdwatchers in our group were ecstatic. Mongolia has more than 400 bird species. The migration routes from the Indian and Pacific Ocean to the Mediterranean and the Arctic cross over the country, which makes it a birdwatcher’s paradise.

Our route started moving towards the north and the temperatures were dropping lower the further north we moved. We were on our way to Lake Khövsgöl, which is one of Mongolia’s gems. The Russian border is not far from the lake. The views were beautiful with wonderful sunsets and we had a delicious dinner next to the lake, enjoying Yaganath’s amazing dishes.Here Baatar made a fire with animal dung, which of course is plentiful in Mongolia and is used as one of their fuels to keep their gers warm, and to cook. Surprisingly, it had no smell and it worked just as well as firewood.

After spending two nights next to the lake, we started moving eastward, back to Ulaanbaatar.We visited an enormous volcanic crater as well as one of the most prominent monasteries, the Amarbayasgalant Monastery.

Our last wild camp ended next to a river where we were entertained by local nomadic Mongols showing us how they herd their horses with experienced horse riders. Imagine, a herd of 500 wild horses. What a fascinating show to watch as they swiftly move through their herds and use rope to catch a wild horse. We were also given a special meal, which is similar to our ‘potjies’, but they cook their meat together with hot stones inside. It was a nostalgic and sad evening, knowing that it would be our last night under the trillions of stars, enjoying the humble life of local nomads.

We headed back to Ulaanbaatar the next day and had a farewell dinner at an Indian restaurant in the city. It was sad to say goodbye, as all of us became the best of friends having spentover 17 days together. It was the most amazing experience. Something I never thought of putting on my bucket list, but surely want to tell everyone to make the effort once in their lifetime to go to Mongolia. I felt like a pioneer who discovered a country for the first time.There are so few people who know about the gems of Mongolia and would never think of swapping the usual places for this unusual destination. Paris, London and the Mediterranean-feel is so overrated now that we’ve had the opportunity (and guts) to visit Mongolia!

Mongolia is a place where your soul is soothed. Leaving you with the revelation that all the materialistic stuff in our lives matter too much to us. Mongolia offers brilliant, diamond-studded night skies. Open spaces that never end. There are no boundaries. This is a place where the humble are happy and content. This place wants you to go back and start over and not race forward. This is how it should be.

20 Years of Living the Journey

Stella Neethling — Wed, 30 Aug 2023 08:34:40 +0000

The Live the Journey Story – celebrating 20-year in Tourism Month

September 2023 marks 20 years of Live the Journey travels.

A 20-chapter travel journal filled with amazing guest experiences and wonderful memories by staff who planned these adventures.

Chapter 1 - 2003: The company was founded by Jurgens Schoeman, a Karoo-boy who had a desire to bring amazing travel experiences to others. Mary Anne Radmacker’s quote: “I am not the same having seen the moon shine on the other side of the world”, left an unmistakable impression on this man, driving this desire.

Chapter 2 – 2004: Momentum is building as part-time weekend trips are planned for the alumni from the University of Stellenbosch under the umbrella of Maties Veldry Klub. At that time there was no office, no company name and no logo, just unforgettable travel memories being made.

Chapter 3 – 2005: The first employee was appointed – Elsabeth Muller, who is still here! Still no office, but the company started operating under the name Siyaya Safaris (meaning “we are going” in Zulu).

Chapter 4 – 2006: The company started to operate as The Journey establishing itself as a market leader for 4x4 tours in the Namib Desert. It is also the year in which the first trip to Tanzania was done. The latter was a guided self-drive trip during which one of the clients suffered a stroke. Thankfully all the guests returned home safely but lots of lessons were learned…

Chapter 5 – 2007: The Journey nearly doubled its annual number of guests by adding new destinations to the tour schedule. The highlight of the year was when a guided self-drive group attended the Kuomboka procession of the Losi King in Barotseland (a region between Namibia, Angola, Botswana, Zimbabwe) and another group drove from Ruacana to the northern-most part of Angola at Soyo.

Chapter 6 – 2008: This marks the year in which the word “Live” was added to the company name and we became known as Live the Journey. Slowly but surely new destinations were added and a highlight this year was Ethiopia with a visit to the Omo Valley and the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela.

Chapter 7 – 2009: The company expanded its touring borders across continents when six guests departed on an overland journey following the Silk Route. A Battlefields Tour to Angola requiring unprecedented planning took place when Col. Jan Breytenbach from the SADF and Joua Nambalo, ex MPLA military officer, joined the touring party.

Chapter 8 – 2010: This was the year flights abruptly came to a halt due to an enormous ash cloud over Europe caused by the eruption of the Eyjafjallajökull volcano in Iceland. Clients were stuck in Europe and South Africa causing absolute havoc and keeping the ever-growing team on their toes!

(Remember how everyone tried to pronounce E y j a f j a l l a j ö k u l l? It is actually quite easy: Ay-uh-fyat-luh-yoe-kuutl-uh.)

Chapter 9 – 2011: A big year. Live the Journey merges with a local destination management company to broaden its service offering. The company name and logo remain the same but we now service both inbound as well as outbound guests. One good thing caused by the ash cloud in Europe was an interest in Iceland. We decided to take a closer look at the island and the first group departed on a guided self-drive trip to the “Land of Fire and Ice”. The first of many.

Chapter 10 – 2012: This was the year that Live the Journey’s contribution to RSG Reis Sonder Grense started by providing the well-known travel news bulletins for the Saturday morning programme.

Chapter 11: 2013: Having weathered the global recession, Live the Journey celebrates 10 years in the tourism industry, shining brightly like a diamond that was shaped by the forces of nature. The well-known Live the Journey diamond logo was launched. Gorilla safaris in Uganda is added to the tour schedule.

Chapter 12 – 2014: The Live the Journey Journal in a newspaper-format was printed for the first time. Morocco, Madagascar, and Rwanda are added to the tour schedule.

Chapter 13 – 2015: Live the Journey finds a home in brand new offices in Paarl. We also sponsor the prizes for the Feite en Geite competition on Kwêla. Mark Beaumont sets a world record for the fastest cycle trip from Cairo to Cape Town with Live the Journey providing support to Mark from his border crossing into South Africa until the end of his journey in Sea Point.

Chapter 14 – 2016: One desert, two runners, nine days and 504 kms. Andrew Murray and Donnie Campbell completed a record-breaking run in the Namib desert under the watchful eye and support of Live the Journey. Borneo and our ever-popular Tanzania Migration Safari is added to the tour schedule.

Chapter 15 – 2017: This marks a record year having had 1 350 guests travelling outside the borders of South Africa. We broaden our horizons again, this time to Sicily for a cooking adventure and colourful India!

Chapter 16 – 2018: We launch our guided 4x4 self-drive group tours to untamed Mongolia, a tour that will change the lives of two very special guests, Adriaan and Laetitia de Lange, who later join the Live the Journey team. The year ends on a high with the Race to the Wreck. Giving support to 70 athletes and crew covering 300 kms on bicycle and on foot in the Namib desert to end at the wreck of the Eduard Bohlen.

Chapter 17 – 2019: Egypt and Peru are added to the tour schedule. Live the Journey is part of the BBC reality series The Heat is On, whereby celebrities had to cross the Namib desert on foot to raise funds for charities… the first live broadcast of a television programme in the Namib Desert. The logistics were mind-boggling, but the success made it all worth it.

Chapter 18 – 2020: Lockdowns due to COVID-19 brings tourism to a halt. At Live the Journey the wheels did not stop turning. A brand-new series of local guided self-drive tours were launched as well as the Namib100 Hike.

Chapter 19 – 2021: The borders with neighbouring countries start to open and tours to Namibia and Botswana resume. We launch the Namaqua Flower Hike. We even manage a group tour to Tanzania, the first post-COVID-19 small group tour to depart.

Chapter 20 – 2022: We introduce the Wupperthal66 adding to our range of world-class hikes. It is time for a change and a new look after the doom and gloom of COVID-19. Live the Journey launches its new look and colours. We have always been pioneers in our field and took this opportunity for our branding to do the same. Our new logo is inspired by the notion that for every new journey you only need to take that first step. Our new journey starts here __

In 2023 Live the Journey celebrates 20-years in the tourism industry. We continue going from strength to strength and add St. Helena Island to our tour schedule, as well as the brand new and exclusive Kuiseb90 hike.

We would like to pay tribute to all our loyal clients, supporters, suppliers, and staff. Without you this Journey would not have been possible. Here’s to many more years of exploring together.

*Header Image Credit: Enzo Lombardi

Pondering Over Primates

Stella Neethling — Thu, 09 Feb 2023 15:25:53 +0000

Why not a Primate Travel Bucket List?

By Elsabeth Muller

Keen travellers always have a bucket list, something to look forward to, a new adventure in the planning. Be it to visit all the World Heritage sites or crossing the world’s greatest deserts, doing luxury train journeys, setting foot on each continent, hot air balloon rides in special places… never-ending lists, determined by individual tastes and interests.

Ever thought of creating a checklist for visiting some of the world’s most endangered primates in their natural habitats? Poaching and deforestation are some of the main reasons primate numbers in the wild are declining at an alarming rate. There is thus no better time than the present to compile this travel list and take your travel experiences to another level.

Let’s get started! The great primates are orangutans, gorillas and chimpanzees, but we would also like to add geladas and lemurs to this list.

Orangutans

Jet off to southeast Asia, particularly Borneo and Sumatra, as these are the only two places on earth where you can still find orangutans. According to the WWF there were approximately 230 000 orangutans still in the wild a century ago. It is now estimated that in Borneo there are currently 104 700 left, putting them on the endangered list, and in Sumatra about 7 500, which means they are critically endangered.

Borneo is the world’s third largest island. The rainforests on the island are 140 million years old and are the habitat for orangutans, the ‘Men of the Jungle’. Visit the Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary in Sabah, Borneo. Most of the wildlife viewing will be done from a boat as you cruise along the Kinabatangan River and its tributaries. Encounters with orangutans are reasonably frequent and if you spot a large tree in fruit you will definitely find orangutans that took up residence nearby. An extra bonus will be spotting proboscis monkeys as this sanctuary is the best place in the world to spot them.

The best time to visit Borneo is from March to October during the dry season.

Mountain Gorillas

The habitat of mountain gorillas is the Virunga Mountains, a range of extinct volcanoes bordering the DRC, Rwanda, Uganda and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in Uganda. About 1 000 of these gentle giants are still roaming the wild, but are under constant threat owing to wars, hunting, diseases and loss of habitat.

From Johannesburg you can touch down in Kigali or Entebbe within four hours. Then one of the most rewarding travel experiences awaits. No need to be Comrades-marathon-fit to do gorilla trekking, but it will be good if you could keep a slow but steady pace for three to four hours on an uneven path at high altitude. The going is slow as the trackers first need to locate the gorillas’ nest from the previous night and then track them from there. Observing their family life for an hour is an overwhelming experience. They are in the wild, but you can recognise many human characteristics: affection, teasing, anger, leadership, caring, sadness, joy and jealousy. This hour of your life will be engraved in your memory forever.

The best time to visit Rwanda or Uganda is mid-December to February or June to September.

Chimpanzees

Once in Rwanda or Uganda for gorilla tracking, you might as well add a chimp tracking experience. The best place in Uganda to do this is in the Kibale Forest National Park with 1500 habituated chimps and 12 other primate species. Nyungwe Forest in Rwanda has about 60 chimps. Chimpanzee tracking is different from gorilla tracking as the chimps are on the move the whole time and sometimes at high speed. They are also a noisy bunch with deafening screams, loud hoots and your hair will raise when they start hitting the tree trunks. The challenge is to keep up with them when they jump from one tree to the next, high up in the forest canopy. Chimpanzee tracking is definitely rewarding, but also exhausting.

Gelada Baboons

Did you know Gelada baboons are grass eaters and the last surviving species of ancient grazing primates? They are endemic to Ethiopia and live in the high mountain meadows of the Simien Mountains. Due to a distinctive red heart on their chest they are often referred to as the bleeding-heart baboons. They are found in herds of several hundred, even a thousand, sitting in the grass grazing. Their distinctive canine teeth are not for eating, but to show dominance or for fighting. A visit to the Simien Mountains can be combined with a historical tour including towns like Gondar, Axum and Lalibela, well-known for the group of 11 rock-hewn churches near the town.

Ethiopia is a great destination all year round. Visits can also be combined with one of the many festivals and ceremonies taking place throughout the year.

Lemurs

To complete this bucket list, we cross the Mozambique Channel to arrive in Madagascar. Here you will find the cutest primates. They are small, have a pointed snout, large eyes and a long tail... lemurs. There are about 105 species and they are native to Madagascar. Lemurs are found across the island as they occupy various habitats: dry deciduous forests, spiny forests, rain forests, wetlands and mountains. While walking in search of lemurs you will become aware of the uniqueness of the island’s fauna and flora. Interestingly, 80% of the plants are endemic, as well as 95% of the mammals, 90% of the reptiles and 50% of bird species. Although the island has beautiful beaches, most tourists visit Madagascar to see all of its unique natural features.

The best time to visit is from April to November.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Tick one (or all) of these primate species off your travel list with Live the Journey. We offer a range of private, guided tours to these destinations for groups or individual travellers.

Contact Us directly to plan a bucket list primate adventure of your own!

Egypt - Your questions answered!

Stella Neethling — Wed, 29 Dec 2021 07:26:06 +0000

While its unique location, Arabic culture and ancient history ensures that it is a popular tourist destination, Egypt remains mysterious to many travellers.

“From the heights of these pyramids, forty centuries look down on us.” - Napoleon Bonaparte. Visiting Egypt takes you 5 000 years back in time to explore one of the world’s oldest civilizations. Geographically, Egypt is part of Africa, but culturally, Egypt is Islamic, uniquely linking northeast Africa with the Middle East. The Suez Canal runs through Egypt and cuts off a small part of its territory in the east, known as the Sinai Peninsula, which forms part of Asia.

Below we answer some of the most frequently asked questions about this mysterious destination:

Is it safe to travel to Egypt?
Tourists have been visiting the ancient wonders of Egypt for centuries and Egyptians have a well-earned reputation for being warm and welcoming towards visitors. While the country is certainly still dealing with political transition following the Egyptian Revolution in 2011, the classic Egyptian tourism destinations, including Cairo and the Nile between Aswan and Luxor, are considered safe. The country has a relatively low crime rate compared to others and, as with any destination in the world, travellers will be safe if they take the same sensible precautions as they would at home. Live the Journey only works with established, registered ground operators in Egypt who remain in contact with local authorities to ensure our guests' safety and comfort.

Do I need a visa?
South African passport holders require a visa to enter Egypt. While you need to apply for your tourist visa to the Egyptian Embassy in South Africa prior to travel, visas are issued free of charge.

What is the climate like and how should I dress in Egypt?
Egypt’s winter months, October to February, are considered the best time to visit, with ‘cooler’ day-time temperatures ranging between 15 to 25°C on the Mediterranean coast and 20 to 30°C in Aswan in the south. The Live the Journey tour takes place in February and we recommend packing loose-fitting cotton clothes that can be layered to keep cool during the day with a light jacket for the evenings. Egypt is a Muslin country with a more conservative attitude towards dress. Female tourists are not required by law to follow the dress code, but dressing conservatively and modestly is a way to show your respect to local custom. It is recommended that ladies pack a scarf or shawl to carry in their daypack for visits to religious monuments and mosques. A sun hat, sunscreen and comfortable walking shoes are must-haves.

What makes the Live the Journey tour so unique?

Our tour is accompanied by a Live the Journey Tour Leader as well as a qualified Egyptologist as our guide.
Besides all the customary destinations a tour to Egypt should comprise, our tour also includes a visit to Abu Simbel, one of Egypt’s most awe-inspiring structures. The Abu Simbel temples are two massive rock temples at Abu Simbel, a village in Nubia, southern Egypt, near the border with Sudan. The four colossal statues of Ramses in front of the main temple are spectacular examples of ancient Egyptian art. The complex is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site known as the "Nubian Monuments".
Another unique aspect of the tour is a four-day cruise on the River Nile from Aswan to Luxor. It is one of the best and most relaxing ways to see Egypt as it combines daily excursions to see ancient relics such as Karnak, the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut and Philae Temples with peaceful moments simply sitting on the deck watching ancient landscapes glide past. The Nile is the life-giving artery of the country. A Nile cruise enables you to first-hand experience the importance of this river to the economy and livelihood along its banks. In the words of Dave Pepler: “I can think of no rolling vista that comes near the banks of the Nile.”

What is so special about our local guide?
Our guide in Egypt is not only a qualified Egyptologist, but also a Bedouin, a nomadic Arab people, who have historically inhabited the desert regions of North Africa. His wealth of knowledge is matched only by his passion for his country. A journey through history therefore comes alive through local story-telling. Sameh is passionate about Egypt and has the ability to explain the very old and complicated history in such a colourful way that it will grip your attention. The facts and fables will stay with you forever ... all you need to do, if you don’t want to miss out, is to follow the guide with the Bedouin turban.

Travel with us! Unleash the inner explorer in you and join us on a journey of discovery through centuries of history.

CLICK HERE for more information.

5 Reasons to look forward to our Tanzania Migration Safari

Stella Neethling — Wed, 20 Jan 2021 09:15:10 +0000

Each year in May, we treat our guests to a life-changing journey to Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park to view the astounding natural spectacle that is the Great Wildebeest Migration. Besides encountering thousands of wildebeest, zebras and gazelle, there are a number of other reasons you should look forward to this incredible experience.

Here are our top 5 reasons:

1. Safari dreams come true
Besides the boundless plains of the Serengeti, you will also visit the Lake Manyara National Park and the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. With over a thousand species of birds and more than 450 mammal species, Tanzania truly is a nature lover’s paradise. To make the most of your safari, guests are treated to a guaranteed window-seat in specially adapted 4x4 vehicles with pop-up roofs – perfect for game-viewing and photography. Our group is limited to only 12 guests and safari guides share their knowledge with pride and passion.

2. A predator's paradise
The Great Migration is the largest overland migration in the world with animals travelling 800 km or more during each annual cycle. It involves over two million wildebeest and zebras, and of course, an astounding array of predators in hot pursuit! While sometimes brutal, it is a natural spectacle as old as time.

3. Meeting the Maasai
The Maasai is an intriguing people with a culture dating back hundreds of years. They lead a semi-nomadic life along the edges of the many game parks of the Great African Lakes and their cattle is their greatest pride. With their distinctive customs and colourful dress, it is fascinating to see how they thrive in these wild landscapes.

4. Tree-climbing lions
Whether it is to get a better view, catch a bit of the cooling breeze or to escape flying insects at ground level, no-one is entirely sure why these lions adapted to this behaviour. One thing is certain, this unusual sight is one of the highlights of a Tanzanian safari.

5. A room with a view
The accommodation throughout your safari offers a luxury retreat after a day filled with adventures. A highlight of the tour is undoubtedly the luxury tented safari camp in the Serengeti National Park. Waking up to a view over the endless grasslands is a true “Out-of-Africa” experience.

The annual movement of wildebeest and other grazing herbivores – the Great Migration – is one of the ultimate spectacles in the natural world. Join us as we discover the natural wonders of the Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater and Lake Manyara.

CLICK HERE for more information

Stella shares her travel memories of Iceland

Stella Neethling — Wed, 20 Jan 2021 08:20:39 +0000

I fell in love with Iceland the first time I laid eyes on it. We had been flying over the ocean for three hours when through the window of the plane, I spotted land and it was pink.

At first, I thought that the fatigue of our 18-hour journey from sweltering South Africa, travelling half-way across the globe, had finally taken its toll. It seemed so strange. How can land be pink? But then I realised that what I had been looking at was the rosy hues of the setting sun, shimmering across the snow-covered island. It was a serene sight, almost dreamy, and completely unexpected. As our plane touched down on the tarmac, I could see the excitement on my group’s faces. For many of them this was the moment a bucket-list dream, finally became reality. But as we stepped off the plane into minus 10-degree weather, the fierce wind lashing icy air into our faces, I could almost see their minds change. “Oh dear! What have we gotten ourselves into?”. If only we had known that this surreal moment truly captured the essence of Iceland… it does not enjoy a reputation as being a land of contrasts for nothing!

What was your most memorable moment on this trip?

Despite the freezing winter temperatures, this land, and the sky above it, is enchanting.

Dusted in snow, its natural beauty, without fail, surprises even the most seasoned of travellers. I vividly remember feeling almost constantly in awe. Every day we would see and experience something new and wonderful. Saying that the scenery is diverse and contradictory, is an understatement. It changes with every turn in the road. We saw gigantic waterfalls, steaming geysers exploding into the icy air, ghostly lava fields and volcanoes with unpronounceable names that punctuate the stark landscape.

Our visit to a natural ice cave was a definite highlight. The otherworldly beauty of layer upon layer of ice, pressed together by the forces of time and nature is unforgettable. Then there was the Black Diamond Beach at Jökulsárlón.This black volcanic sand beach takes its name from the hundreds of glittering icebergs scattered along the shore. Large blocks of ice break off from the nearby glacier falling into the lagoon. From here it flows down a short river into the Atlantic Ocean, where the chunks are broken into smaller pieces and wash up onto the beach transforming it into something magical.

Few sights are as breath-taking as the aurora borealis. It is hard to describe but they really do seem to dance across the sky and while it is normal to see them in green and white, on my second visit to Iceland we also saw the palest of reds and purple flittering across the clear night sky.

Do you have any insider tips for anyone wanting to visit Iceland?

Iceland’s tap water is some of the purest on earth, so there is no need to buy water. Bring a re-usable water bottle.
Once you find the elusive aurora borealis, capturing decent photos of it is a whole new challenge. Take some time beforehand to familiarise yourself with your camera’s manual settings so that you don’t have to fumble around in the dark and cold when the magical lights appear. A tripod is a must.
Pack your winter coat and your summer pyjamas! I know it’s a cliché but layers really do work best in Iceland’s winter. You will need a water- and windproof jacket, gloves, scarf, beanie and waterproof boots. Having said that, while it is extremely cold outside, all buildings are centrally heated. I found the temperature in hotel rooms almost balmy, so be sure to pack some lighter clothing too.

Hike the Namib100 with Erns Grundling

Stella Neethling — Mon, 05 Oct 2020 07:24:33 +0000

“The Namib100 reminds of iconic hikes like the Camino de Santiago and the Kumano Kodo in Japan. Breath-taking and diverse landscapes, excellent food and customer service by the Live the Journey team, and above all silence, silence, silence… A much-needed break from all the demands of modern life and digital technology. Pure bliss!” - Erns Grundling, author and TV presenter

The exclusive Namib100 Hike is the is the latest addition to the Live the Journey Namib Desert experience portfolio. In September 2019 Live the Journey invited experienced hikers, key role players in the hiking sector as well as journalists to join a recce of the route.

Renowned journalist, author and TV presenter, Erns Grundling, was part of this first group ever to walk this concession area in the Namib Desert and called it an incomparable, world-class slackpacking experience in the Namib desert.

We are excited to announce that Erns will be the tour leader on several of the Namib100 Hikes for 2021.

The Namib100 is not your average run-of-the-mill hike, but rather in a bucket-list league of its own with the likes of Kilimanjaro, the Grand Canyon and the Camino de Santiago. This fully-catered, fully-supported five-day hike in the oldest desert on earth, will overwhelm you with a sense of total freedom and inspiration. It’s an area that answers to names like the Forbidden Land, Sperrgebiet and Skeleton Coast, where numerous shipwrecks stand witness to the power of nature over man.

This is a Live the Journey ‘exclusive’ hike, which means that as a concession holder, we have exclusive rights to host a limited number of hikes in the Namib Desert concession. The 100 km five-day hike originates a few kilometres outside of Walvis Bay and ends at the wreck of the famous Eduard Bohlen, which was stranded in 1909.

More about Erns Grundling

Erns Grundling is a passionate traveller and hiker and has extensive experience of multi-day hikes and pilgrimages. His love for people and stories makes him an excellent travelling companion and speaker.

He worked as a journalist at Die Burger, LitNet, Insig magazine and Weg. During this time, he received twelve national awards for his journalism. His first book, Elders, about his Camino pilgrimage in Spain, was published in 2017 and is a bestseller. In 2019 an English translation, Walk It Off, was published. He was co-presenter of the TV series Weg Agterpaaie on Via and is currently presenter and co-producer of the SAFTA-winning travel series Elders on kykNET and Showmax, now in its third season.

With Erns as tour leader, guests can look forward to entertaining evenings spent around the campfire, as he shares his hiking stories and read from his travel books.

He has travelled far and wide. He has a keen interest in psychology, philosophy, mindfulness, the inner journey and purposeful travel. His presence on a tour is sure to enrich, entertain and keep things interesting.

Contact us for more information or to book. Space is limited on these special departures.

Tanzania's Northern Circuit - a must on your safari to-do list

Stella Neethling — Sat, 05 Sep 2020 13:23:35 +0000

We’ve asked Live the Journey consultant, Petro Human, what her favourite safari destination is and the answer came without hesitation: “It has to be Tanzania’s northern safari circuit.”

The region includes, amongst others, the Serengeti and Lake Manyara national parks, as well as the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and I am astonished at the great care and effort Tanzanians put into conserving the land and wildlife through the gigantic national parks, most of which have no fences.

They take pride and joy in it – something which is evident when you spend time with the passionate local guides that accompany our guests. Their knowledge is outstanding – they seem to know the name of every bird and plant, and can spot the tree-climbing lions long before you even realise they’re there.

The array and abundance of wildlife is extraordinary. There is, of course, the hundreds of thousands of wildebeest and zebra, eternally migrating in an age-old pattern from south to north following the rains. This natural spectacle is followed by eager predators, always looking for an opportunity to present itself. I don’t think I have ever seen this number of lions, young and old, in one place. Never mind the hyenas, leopards, cheetahs and other scavengers. Add the rest of the animal kingdom such as elephants, giraffe, buffalo, hippos, rhino etc. and countless bird species to this mix and you have the stuff safari dreams are made of!

What was your most memorable moment on this trip?

Without a doubt it was getting my first glimpse of the migration in the Serengeti, and then being completely engulfed by it, moments later.

It is hard to find the words that even begin to describe what you experience and what you are witnessing when even with your binoculars you cannot see the end of it. I felt small and humble and was left speechless at the overwhelming, thunderous sound of the hooves as thousands of wildebeest, zebras and gazelles moved past us. But every moment in the Serengeti is magic really. Just when you think to yourself that that is the best and most indescribable moment I have ever experienced you drive around a bend in the road and the next sighting is even better.

No photo or video can even begin to capture the endless plains and blue skies of the Serengeti or the way it makes you feel, and a sunset here is absolutely priceless!

Do you have any insider tips for anyone wanting to go on safari?

Time is of no essence in the Serengeti where it is only you and nature… leave your watch in your tent before you leave on safari in the morning, but do remember a good pair of binoculars!
We visited a local traditional Maasai village where the tribes hold fast to their ancestral ways and cultural values. Their lives and livelihood revolve around their cattle. Their blingy accessories and handcrafts are amazing. Not only does it make the perfect memento to bring a piece of the Serengeti home with you but also supports the local community. Just be sure to bring a big suitcase!
The colourful Maasai blankets make for another great souvenir. Your guide will point out the best places to buy these and they are available in an array of colours. I use mine as a picnic blanket or table cloth to brighten up the “braai”.
Tanzanians are known for being friendly and easy-going people, however, it is courteous to always ask permission before photographing people.
If at all possible, a hot air balloon safari over the Serengeti is an absolute must-do activity. While it is expensive, floating above the vast plains allows for a completely unique and unforgettable safari experience. Be sure to book in advance to avoid disappointment.

Live the Journey offers an exclusive, guided, small group tour, namely the Tanzania Migration Safari, in May each year. This is the best time to view thousands of wildebeest and zebras on the plains of the Serengeti.

Please contact us to discuss alternative options, should this group tour not suit your travel schedule. Other options include:

A private tour option whereby Live the Journey will compile a programme to accommodate your needs with regards to date, budget and routing.
Join one of the scheduled tours as offered by our travel partners in Tanzania. These tours depart on a regular basis.

Jeanette shares her travel memories of Angola

Stella Neethling — Sat, 05 Sep 2020 13:03:12 +0000

I love travelling in Africa and, currently, my favourite destination is Angola. It is a country that took me completely by surprise. I did not expect the natural beauty we encountered or the serenity I experienced while touring this country. While Angola has a turbulent past, I was humbled by the beautiful culture of the people and the story that this country had to tell.

What was your most memorable moment on this trip?
It is extremely hard to choose only one moment. The sunsets were like no other I have ever seen. Watching the colours of the Calandula Falls change as dusk set in took my breath away. The beaches were beautiful and the ocean warm. The stories and sights of the shipwreck yard at Barra do Dande were fascinating. The impressive Leba Pass and the mysterious rock formations of Pedras Negras were some other awe-inspiring highlights.

I couldn’t believe what a beautiful country Angola is and the contrasts between the different areas we visited were completely unexpected.

Do you have any insider tips to share?

This is an adventure in the truest sense of the word. You will be travelling on rough roads with potholes and some days may be long, so be prepared for that. It is absolutely worth the effort though.
The markets have the most beautiful materials but they only accept Kwanzas, the local currency. Your guide will assist you with exchanging money the evening before you depart.
You will be able to take some of the most beautiful photos on this trip. If you have a camera, it is an absolute must to pack. Don’t forget your car charger and extra memory cards!
The local children love soccer and are always immensely grateful to receive any old (or new) balls you have to spare.

The Namib100 Hike - in a bucket-list league of its own

Stella Neethling — Wed, 12 Aug 2020 08:29:11 +0000

We've asked Live the Journey owner Jurgens Schoeman and his wife, Karien, to share some of their favourite travel memories of a recent trip to the Namib Desert.

You have been to the Namib Desert countless times. What made this trip so special?

Live the Journey recently launched an exclusive new experience to our desert portfolio namely the Namib100 Hike. This was a recce trip and we invited experienced hikers, key role players in the hiking sector as well as journalists to join this first group ever to walk this concession area in the Namib Desert.

What excited us is that this is the first-of-its-kind hike in the world’s oldest desert. ‘Concession’ means that it is so exclusive, that you can only do this walk with Live the Journey. ‘Exclusive’ means that every drop of water we used, every piece of food we ate, literally everything, had to be taken in by the supporting team. And, of course, also taken out. The hike is also limited to a maximum of 18 to 24 hikers.

The hike starts south of Walvis Bay in the Naukluft National Park. Over a period of five days hikers complete a 100 km-hike along the Skeleton Coast ending at Namibia’s most famous shipwreck, the Eduard Bohlen. The fact that we experienced it for ourselves, and had expert hikers with us on the recce, assisted to resolve most issues before we launched the hike and their feedback and advice was carefully taken into consideration when the final product was packaged.

What was your most memorable moment on this trip?

It is hard to pinpoint any one moment. The entire experience surprized and delighted us daily.

Erling Kagge, the Norwegian explorer, believes in the transformative power of a walk. Having done the Camino de Santiago and numerous other walks, we wholeheartedly agree with Kagge. When we drive through the desert, animals like the oryx and brown hyena would hear approaching vehicles and run away. Being on foot was a different story altogether; the possibility of meeting eye to eye was exhilarating and scary at the same time.

When you are driving it is difficult to pay detailed attention to your surrounds. However, if you were to walk along the same route – listening, feeling the sand beneath your feet – a day becomes something else entirely. It’s like building a friendship. A landmark on the horizon that changes as you come closer feels like an intimate friend by the time you arrive. And this is precisely the secret held by all those who go on foot: Life is prolonged when you walk (Erling Kagge).

The Namib Desert is the oldest desert on earth. The sand dunes constantly change colour and shape. In the mornings we started early to cover as much distance as possible before the sun hits full force. These early morning encounters were magical and serene. During the late afternoon, the desert puts on her most beautiful gown to show off her curves. During the night, the sky was a vast canvas of the galaxy. We camped under a blanket of twinkling lights and watched shooting stars crisscross the Milky Way.

Do you have any insider tips to share?

The rating level for this hike is level 6 and 7. Although this is a fully-supported and fully-catered hike, you must be prepared – inner strength and a strong mind are just as important as physically doing the distance every day. To us, the greatest walks we have experienced, were when the walk itself was the goal.

The weather is ideal for hiking as you will be walking along the coastline much of the time. The cold sea current has a cooling effect compared to the heat of the desert. Even on the days that we walk a bit more inland, it can still be mild and sometimes cool. Be prepared for cold, wet and hot weather. It is best to wear layers.

You will experience desert cuisine at its best! The guides and support team really aim to spoil you. While the menu has a variety of foods for every one of the three meals included daily, it is a good idea to bring your preferred snacks to carry with you during the day.

While your luggage will be transported during the trip, please remember that space is limited, so be sure to pack light and use a ‘soft’ bag only. You will only have to walk with your backpack.

Live the Journey would like to thank Pierre Steyn for these pictures that he took while hiking through the Namib Desert with us.

More information on Live the Journey’s exclusive Namib100 Hike

The Namib100 is not your average run-of-the-mill hike, but rather in a bucket-list league of its own with the likes of Kilimanjaro, the Grand Canyon and the Camino de Santiago. This fully-catered, fully-supported five-day slackpacking hike in the Namib, the oldest desert on earth, will overwhelm you with a sense of total freedom and inspiration. It’s an area that answers to names like the Forbidden Land, Sperrgebiet and Skeleton Coast, where numerous shipwrecks stand witness to the power of nature over man.

This is a Live the Journey ‘Exclusive’ hike, which means that as a concession holder, we have exclusive rights to host a limited number of hikes in the Namib Desert concession. The 100 km five-day hike originates a few kilometres outside of Walvis Bay and ends at the wreck of the famous Eduard Bohlen, which was stranded in 1909.

Distance: 100 km.
Duration: 5 Nights/ 6 Days (not including pre-/ post days).
Group size: Groups are limited to only 24 hikers.
Rating: Level 6 and 7 – although it is not a difficult hike, endurance and stamina is required.

The Namib100 Hike was a finalist in the African Travel and Tourism Awards in the category Most Compelling Adventure Story.

Click here for more information on the hike. Please also visit www.namib100hike.com for more information.

Elsabeth shares her travel memories of India

Stella Neethling — Wed, 05 Aug 2020 11:33:53 +0000

When asked: “What is your favourite travel destination?” Someone once answered: “The last destination I visited”. This is also Head of the Outbound Department, Elsabeth Muller’s, sentiment after returning from INDIA recently.

Every day in India is like opening a magic box full of colours, flavours, aroma, history, architecture, chaos and lots of honking. I was looking forward to each day and carefully packed away the memories of previous days so that I can clearly recall them when I reflect back.

New Delhi is beautiful with colourful flowering gardens; the Amber Fort in Jaipur is an impressive maze of courtyards and marble mosaics; Keoladeo Ghana National Park offered a wonderful bird-watching experience and I am not even a bird-watcher; the sunset over the Betwa River in Orchha was truly a postcard moment and then nothing can prepare you for Varanasi on the Ganges River. No photo, YouTube clip or guide book can capture the overwhelming melting pot of colour, chaos and spirituality in Varanasi.

What was your most memorable moment on this trip?

India is synonymous with the Taj Mahal and in real life it is even more beautiful than any photo of the Taj that I have seen. At first glimpse I was standing with a dropped jaw, taking millions of pictures with my eyes. One of the group members brought me back to reality when she asked: “Elsabeth, must I take a photo of you?”

Also, no one ever tells you that the Taj is flanked by a red mosque and guest pavilion equally beautiful. Across the Yamuna River on a huge open field young people are playing cricket, the future MS Dhoni’s and Tendulkar’s of India. I don’t think they realise what an amazing backdrop they have. The Taj is a must visit, but India is a fascinating country that will surprise you with more wonders than just the Taj Mahal.

Do you have any insider tips for anyone wanting to visit India?

Don’t be afraid to use the local transport in cities when you have free time. A ride in a rickshaw-bicycle allowed us to take in the narrow streets of Old Delhi, for longer distances the tuk-tuks are comfortable and they even allow you to engage in a short chat with locals at traffic lights or in peak traffic – that is how close they travel to each other.

The train trip from Agra to Orchha was such a surprise. People tend to have a picture of over-crowded trains with people on the roofs when they think of Indian rail transport. On an express train you are allocated a seat and a coach number, each coach has a nice bathroom and you also get a tray with snacks, juice and tea – just like on a flight.

Always have a scarf in your day pack – you sometimes need it when you entre a mosque, otherwise you need to use the one that is provided.

In India there is lots to buy and you can bargain: Jaipur for carpets and jewellery with semi-precious stones, Agra for marble inlay articles, Varanasi for silk, and for local Indian tea and spices you visit a supermarket to buy the real stuff locals use.

What our guests say

Stella Neethling — Fri, 05 Oct 2018 12:13:08 +0000

We are grateful for all feedback received from our guests. Here is a selection from recently completed tours.

The tour we had from Lüderitz to Walvis Bay was one of the best experiences my husband and I ever had. I have never camped in my life before and went with an open mind. Well, to say I was blown away by the journey is an understatement. The Namib Desert took my breath away. Our guide Len explained the ecosystem and history in such detail. He was outstanding. From driving to handling challenging situations (and guests) and cooking. He made me feel safe and brave. And can Len recover a vehicle almost without breaking a sweat! Luciano and Miles did all the hard work. They were neat and clean and tidy. They presented the meals stunningly. I will definitely buy their Live the Journey Uri camping cookbook. Luciano's coleslaw recipe is a must. I must also complement Miles on always having a hot shower ready when I needed one (everyday). These boys were super hosts! What a pleasure. My husband and I travelled alone and met the most amazing people on this trip. I feel richer and blessed by getting to know the characters that crossed our path in such a small timespan. We had a blast! Thank you Live the Journey for creating the opportunity so that we can experience one of the most precious places that God created on this earth. We are definitely planning to see you in the future.
- Melissa and Anton Knoetze, Lüderitz to Walvis Bay, September 2018

The more I have to tell people about our trip, the more I feel that we have only been there in a flash of a moment. Suddenly things here are overrated and too much. We had more enjoyment with the basics there than with the luxuries here. I felt more connected to all of you there than I now feel towards some of my lifelong friends here. This trip is forever burnt in my memories and one of the most fulfilling experiences ever. Thank you to all of you who has been part of this amazing journey.
- Leatitia De Lange, Mongolia 4x4 Guided Self-drive Adventure, August 2018

Len, Luciano and Johnny were extremely professional, yet humble, friendly, and SO MUCH FUN. We enjoyed every moment with them. Len's calmness diffused many a stressful situation and the team's sense of humour made what could have been an enjoyable tour, an unforgettable one. They are on top of their game with regards to knowledge of the area and the different vehicles on tour, and their teamwork is outstanding. Nothing was too much trouble for them and they handled each guest (youngest 7 years, oldest 79 years) with the utmost respect, ease and care. Look after those three guys - they are worth their weight in gold!!!!
- Guest Feedback, Faces of the Namib, August 2018

Absolutely enjoyed every moment of the tour!! We had a good group with us and André and team did an exceptionally well job (I would request that he be my tour leader for any upcoming events), the food was great and especially my Elephant poop Birthday Cake (wasn’t hungry at the time so didn’t have slice ) Thank you for your assistance with everything, Jeanette, you have been fantastic!!
- Ryan Otto, Kunene River Mouth, July 2018

Tahiti of the East: A journey into Borneo

Stella Neethling — Mon, 01 Oct 2018 13:16:08 +0000

In room seventeen of the Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts in Moscow there hangs a ravishing painting by Paul Gauguin. Painted in Tahiti in 1892, Matamoe has always been my imaginary visual reference to the oceanic tropics; saturated powdery colours, red and yellow soils, the sway of palms, the opaque greens of dense forests and the cappuccino skin tones of peoples living on equatorial islands. How strange that the continental tropics hardly have the same qualities of light, texture and colour; could it be the lack of wind? Perhaps, because tropical islands are the prisoners of the warm windy seas. Borneo is such an island.

It took nearly nineteen hours of flying to get to Kota Kinabalu in Sabah and by the time we arrived at our harbour side hotel I was comatose with fatigue - all I wanted was a shower and a lie down. Dropping my suitcase at the door, I opened the curtains to let in the bright light, thinking it would help with the coming jet lag. I stood rooted at the sight because elevation suddenly afforded perspective of the town and sea beneath, still in the heat and humidity of noon. The promenade though was alive with figures, like termites around a mound, and at the center of the mound, a market. Ever since I started travelling as a young man, markets have always been my gateway and introduction to a culture because they are the stages upon which the dramas of everyday life play out. Markets are democratic, non-ageist, non-sexist and, above all, honest. Forgetting rest, forgetting recovery, I dropped everything and rushed outside.

It so happened that I discovered the fish market first. The variety of tropical marine life on display was a dazzling canvas of nautical hues; bright-eyed parrot fish on ice, crabs, shrimps, lobsters, mollusks and octopi. Not only were they being displayed, but also for every stall there was an associated kitchen. Imagine the scene: the ocean wall as background, the acrid smell of charcoal fires, sizzling fish on the griddle, fresh ginger, fresh fruit on the side, served on a banana leaf. This first impression set the tone for the rest of out Bornean culinary experience. I don’t think that I have ever encountered a cuisine more anchored to the fresh, the local and the seasonal. As for taste and texture, the shock of recognition came soon afterwards – these are the deep roots of our Cape Malay cuisine.

Since I travel constantly, I have trained myself not to indulge in buying souvenirs. Inevitably it happens: you drink the most delicious tea or coffee and insist on buying a large quantity. Proudly you produce this at home and it tastes: absolutely awful. Why? Simply because you are not free and relaxed, your kettle is too clean, your water purified and above all, your mind is at home. But so close to buying pearls I have never been. Tiny stalls offer cascades of fresh- and seawater pearls, in hues so subtle as if you are witnessing the secret heart of a conch. Luster and nacre interplay with the obsidian of black pearls.

I would hate this writing to become a litany of bucket list wishes for the prospective traveller simply because I now profess to know something about Borneo. Much rather I would wish to share with you my first impressions of a place that I had dreamed about all my life as well taught about during my long academic career. So, what does Borneo conjure up? Head hunting? Japanese death marches? Malarial miasmas? Orangutans?

Most travellers to Sabah wish to encounter orangutans, in much the same way that they wish to see gorillas in Rwanda, chimps in Tanzania and geladas in Ethiopia. All of these belong to the group known as the Old World Apes and are of the most charismatic primates on earth. Having encountered gorillas, chimps and geladas before, I was particularly keen to see these “old men of the forests”. For this you must travel to Sandakan, where there is a 400-hectare rehabilitation center for orangutans rescued from a certain death where their habitat has been destroyed by palm oil plantations, or where hapless babies have been caught for the pet market. Later on the trip we found wild orangutans, but Sandakan is the place to meet them face-to-face.

Situated in a pristine rain forest, the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre is a model of scientific management. Raised boardwalks connect the different modules of the institution; there are strict codes of conduct and in silence we were led to the nursery. I was unprepared for the babies and for my own spontaneous tears. Having raised children, I thought I knew something about infant play, but baby orangutans take frolicking to a new heavenly level. Intertwined like giant red spiders, they laugh silently (apes cannot laugh out loud), but what struck me deeply was my immediate anthropomorphism in regarding them as children. Later, seeing the adults at feeding time, I was again overwhelmed by their sheer human qualities and deep remorse for the devastation that we had brought to their innocence. For surely these glorious rain forests must have been paradise before man came?

Glorious rain forests? Yes indeed they are glorious, in a manner I could never have imagined. Only when reading up for my journey, did I realize that the Bornean rain forests are older than those of the Amazon, in fact, the oldest on earth. We spent three days in Kinabalu Park, a World Heritage Site of over 750 square kilometers and where Mount Kinabalu at 4095 meters, towers over the misty jungle. This forest contains more than 4500 plant-, 326 bird- and 100 mammal species and this becomes patently obvious when an entire zoo walks into your room should you leave the door open at night. I found it difficult to sleep simply because the shimmer of butterfly wings of the day gave way to the subtle leafy hues of moth wings after dark.

As for plants, Borneo will leave you gob smacked. Take a walk through the forest and you might think that you are in the orchid house in Kew Gardens. With over 2200 species, the sheer diversity of shapes, size and colour leaves one speechless. Lower your eyes to the forest floor, and you will see parasitic flowering plants and insects straight out of a science fiction film. On a rainy day I found, beautifully camouflaged on dead leaves, a trilobite beetle, actually a firefly, winding its way. Upon waking in the swamps off the Sulu Sea, a rhinoceros beetle, the size of my hand, slowly walked along my balcony balustrade. This is the true glory of Borneo: the senses are constantly vaulted in scale exercises, from arm’s length to forest giant, from the gossamer eye of the Lalique dragonfly to the full moon over the Sulu Sea.

Once over the thrill of orangutans, Borneo holds even more mammalian surprises. Sticking to primates, the proboscis monkey is currently my favourite ape. They are slow moving creatures, living in large family groups, led by alpha males; large orange haired creatures with Donald Trump-like hairdos and a pendulous nose. Rarely have I seen such baleful animals, gently moving through the canopy, munching leaves. Their neighbours are much more lively and vocal, and with gibbons, five species of languor and macaque; a forest walk or river cruise is never without monkey business. Then, there is the Sunda Flying Lemur, one of the most secretive of arboreal primates. Not at all related to the famous lemurs of Madagascar, they are nevertheless very primitive primates, hiding against tree trunks in daytime. After dusk, if you are lucky, you will see the eerie translucent membrane between their limbs as they glide silently through the canopy.

Sticking to the trees, Borneo has one final mammalian surprise. So threatened, that one can practically only find them in rehabilitation, the Bornean Sun Bear which is the smallest true bear on earth, can be seen at the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Center. Adjacent to Sepilok, in much the same system as for orangutans, rescued bears are kept. This time however, the consequences of captivity is much more difficult to reverse and many of the animals here simply cannot revert to freedom since their spatial sense has been fixed by the confines of their erstwhile cages. Even in freedom, they, like automatons, pace the imaginary walls of the pens.

Pigs have always fascinated me and one evening, just before dusk, I encountered the ultimate hog. The Bornean Bearded Pig is a long legged, forest dwelling creature with a nose as long as the bonnet of a 1930s Bugatti. Bright of eye, and with a scruffy beard on the cheeks, they are wetland specialists, rooting noisily in die mangrove wetlands.

Finally, the overwhelming richness of Borneo’s wildlife is equaled by the cultural wealth of this island. They are a gentle and happy people, rooted in a past that is not forgotten and celebrated in the rites of every day. They still keep one of the oldest dogs known to man, the fabled Bornean Singing dog as pets, their chickens are closely related to the primordial jungle fowl from which all breeds arose, and they harvest the seas and land like their predecessors did.

The day came when we had to leave, and at the airport in Kota Kinabalu I gathered my guests from the Live the Journey tour around me. After the usual pleasantries, I asked them if there was any aspect of the tour to Borneo that they would have changed. Spontaneously they answered: “NO!”

By: Dave Pepler

Namibia: Seven Rivers Tour

Stella Neethling — Wed, 25 Jul 2018 19:53:42 +0000

As we drove further away from civilization and deeper into the Kaokoland the restlessness in ourselves were replaced by serenity and inner peace. We were far away from any work stress, school exams or new world wars and ready to recharge our batteries in this western corner of Namibia.

The population density in this area is one person for every 2km². Big cities and hug shopping malls are nowhere to be seen. The major town is Opuwo and the rest are just dots on a map: Palmwag, Sesfontein, Purros, Rooidrom, Epupa and Orupembe.

An adventure that needed some careful planning was ahead of us. The Kaokoland is an amazing place, but can be very hostile if you don’t prepare carefully. Mobile connections are not part of the inclusions for such a trip, but our guide had a satphone for emergencies. Ensure that you have enough fuel to last from one fuel stop to the next as well as extra should the pumps be dry at your planned stop. Finding drinking water in these harsh conditions is difficult. Be like a camel and carry more than the daily requirement.

Our tour started at the Kunene River Lodge where we met our guide. The camp is under a canopy of trees with beautiful views of Angola across the river. From there we followed the course of the river in a westerly direction. Along the river bank you will find hundreds of Makalani Palms with glimpses of the Zebra Mountains in the distance. Our destination, Epupa. Here the waters of the Kunene plunge 60 meters down into the main stream with the river splitting up in hundreds of small waterfalls. It is a water spectacle that you will never forget.

With butterflies in our stomach we started the day as Van Zyl’s Pass was on the agenda and we did not really know what to expect. We have heard and read so many stories about this notorious pass. The pass is located between two mountain ranges in the Marienfluss. The Marienfluss is a valley with soft sand and grasslands as far as the eye can see. Yippieee! We have conquered Van Zyl’s Pass… slowly and very carefully and not without one or maybe two nerve wrecking moments, but the calm voice of our guide over the radio guided us and kept our nerves under control.

Another icon of the Kaokoland is Rooidom… a 45-gallon Caltex drum used for petrol storage. The purpose of the drum changed and it became a navigational point… lending the area its name.

If you are lucky you will find a cold beer at the Orupembe shop. We then started with our zig-zag route that will gradually take us south by following the Khumib River. Later we found ourselves in the Hoariseb River and eventually reached Purros Community Camp. This area is traditionally the domain of the desert elephants. If you do find them take care, they can be aggressive.

We headed for Sesfontein, refuelled before proceeding to the Khowarib Schlucht. Then we made our way to Palmwag, which is basically just a lodge… one of the oldest in Namibia. It is located in a beautiful area with palms whispering in the wind. In this area we saw some giraffe, oryx, springbok and kudu.

South of Palmwag we entered Damarland and visited some of the historical sites in the area. The Twyfelfontein engravings is Namibia’s only World Heritage Site. Also, nearby is the Organ Pipes, Petrified Forest and Burnt Mountain.

Our trip ended at the Brandberg White Lady Lodge. It does not matter if you are a city dweller, seasoned camper, well-travelled jetsetter or just someone looking for a place to escape too… join the Seven Rivers Tour for a recharging adventure.

Faces of the Namib

Stella Neethling — Wed, 25 Jul 2018 19:39:03 +0000

Solitaire. Hoe vertaal mens dié pleknaam? Alleen? Afgesonder? Dis gepas die begin van ‘n Life the Journey-reis wat nou al kultusstatus in die kleine gekry het: Faces of the Namib.

Dis daar in Solitaire waar julle laatmiddag stilhou vir brandstof vir ses dae, ‘n paar laaste bottels water – en wyle Moose McGregor se beroemde appeltert. Daar’s afwagting in die lug as die toergroep mekaar oor ‘n kampvuur ontmoet en die gidse diplomaties uitvis wie’s ervare duinryers en wie’s, wel, eerder ervare met Sandton se sypaadjies.

Dag 2 se ontmoeting met die woestyn is 35km noord van Solitaire, met ‘n draai na links by ‘n bord wat sê Namib Nauklüftpark. En dis dit. Dis hoe terloops die avontuur begin. Skielik is jy op paaie waar min ander al gery het. Permitpaaie. Jy volg die spore van geskiedenis – die vroeë setlaars met hul ossewaens, transportryers in die laat 1800’s en die Duitse Schütztruppe met hul kameelpatrollies tot 1918.

Oor die wye Namib-vlaktes kruip jy geleidelik nader aan die duine. Die eerste rooi duine maak hul opwagting, mak genoeg vir die onervare bestuurders om hul ry-tegniek te oefen. Die Kuiseb-ravyn is ‘n onvergeetlike gesig met die hoë rooi duine aan die een kant, anderkant ‘n pikswart rotswand, en die rivierbedding vol bome.

Namib se oerplante lyk soos ou tantes wat velties vang. Welwitschia Mirabilis. Twee breë blare deur eeue se wind tot flardes verfomfaai. En dan, die eerste aand in die woestyn onder die sterre. Rondom jou, die stilte. Jy en jou reisgenote is alleen onder die uitspansel. En dan weet jy: hierdie oos-wes-reis deur die wêreld se oudste woestyn verander jou lewe.

Die volgende dag oppad na Conception-baai spoel jy uit op die sandsee. Teen dié tyd is die stadsbestuurders en hul 4x4’s reeds ‘ingebreek’ want die duine raak nou massief – sommige heelwat hoër as 150m.

Jy kamp dié aand in die diepwoestyn, met die maanlig op die breë ‘strate’ tussen die duine wat bleek voor jou uitstrek.

Jy druk jou hand diep in die duin, nog warmgebak in die son, diep in tot waar dit koud word.

Op die vierde dag verander die kleure van die landskap soos jy naderkom aan die Atlantiese Oseaan. Tussen Conceptionbaai en Meob-baai, in ’n antieke seebodem, is die diamant-myndorpies Grillenberger, Holsatia en Charlottenfelder. Die vroeë myners het die seebodem letterlik vir diamante onder die onherbergsaamste toestande “gehark”. Die dorpies vertel windverwaaide verhale met verweerde drankbottels wat verstrooi lê. In ‘n museum is daar ou Duitse boeke, huisraad, gereedskap. In Holsatia staan ’n stoof nog met ’n pot of twee op die plate. In ‘n begraafplaas waai die wind die bleek beendere oop en toe.

Al met die see langs ry jy onverhinderd op die strand verby die Eduard Bohlen-skeepswrak. Van die eens-indrukwekkende ou skip is daar min oor. ‘n Rooijakkalsgesin het kaart-en-transport oorgeneem van die geroeste kajuite.

Verby die Shawnee-skeepswrak en Sandwich-baai, ontmoet jy die langewand (die smal strook tussen die duine en die see) wat jy met laagwater moet ry, anders druk die oseaan jou vas teen die 100m hoë duine wat reg op die strand eindig.

Van Sandwichbaai af laat die Namib jou vol adrenalien, met reuse duine waarin jy rondspeel. Jy ry oor slip faces: op met die rugkant en dan neus-af oor die kruin, en dit voel vir jou jy’s loodreg daar af, en jy onthou klaarhelder al die youtube-videos van ouens wat die Goue Reël van Ry Reguit vergeet het, skuins begin gly en dan dan na benede tuimel.

En vir oulaas, ‘n paar speelgate waarin jy gillend die duin volspoed afjaag tot onder, Evel Knievel-agtig gat te skuur oor die bodem en dan weer voet-in-die-hoek bid tot bo.

Nêrens is daar ‘n plek soos die Namib nie. Hoe sê Jurgens Schoeman? As hy himself weer wil vind, gaan raak hy verlore daar.

Deur: Hanlie Retief

Madagaskar

Stella Neethling — Wed, 25 Jul 2018 19:11:40 +0000

La Grande Île. Die groot eiland. Madagaskar. Eenduisend kilometer van kontraste – woestyn én reënwoud, rysland én koraalrif – uitgestrek in die Indiese Oseaan langs Afrika.

As jy reguit suid vaar vanaf die suidste punt van Madagaskar, is daar niks behalwe grys see en wilde storms tot jy Antarktika 5 000 km verder bereik nie.

Madagaskar ís die eiland op die einde van die aarde, soos die Malgassiese digter Flavien Ranaivo dit beskryf het. Marco Polo het nooit daar voet aan wal gesit nie, maar hy het reg geraai toe hy geskryf het dis “een van die grootste en beste eilande in die wêreld,” lees ek in ‘n National Geographic uit 1967.

Die skrywer HG Wells se verhaal Aepyornis Island gaan oor ŉ versamelaar wat Madagaskar toe is om te gaan soek na ŉ reuse voël met eiers so groot, volstruiseiers lyk soos hoendereiers langs hulle.

Dis ŉ wilde, vreemde wêreld. Byna al die inheemse diere kom nêrens anders ter wêreld voor nie – en wie is beter as Suid-Afrika se groen-ghoeroe, Dave Pepler, om jou op ŉ Live the Journey-toer deur Madagaskar te begelei.

Mens vergeet nie die eerste keer as jy in ŉ lemur se goue oë kyk nie, en die hiert! as ŉ paar ‘mak’ lemurs op jou kop of skouers spring en in jou hare begin rondvroetel nie, maar nét so onthou jy die rare blaarstert-geitjie in die reënwoudpark Parc National Montagne D’Ambre, wat die ligene op boombas mimiek om hom te kamoefleer.

Nét so onvergeetlik is die vreemde gevoel as ŉ Panter-trapsuutjie (Furcifer pardalis) voetjie vir klewerige voetjie op jou bo-arm rondwandel.

Sit voet aan die eilandjie Nosy Be (teen Madagaskar se noordwestelike puntjie) en dit voel kompleet asof jy in ŉ Indiese Oseaanse Tahiti aangeland het. Palmbome, wit strande, vissers in uitgeholde boomstomp-kano’s.

As jy op Hell Ville (vernoem na ŉ ou Franse admiraal) van die vliegtuig afklim, ruik jy die swaar soet geur van ylang-ylang, en die bome se takke hang swaar van die geelgroen blommetjies. By die fabriek lê hulle in tamaai hope voor hulle in antieke boepens-koperketels gedistilleer word. Byna honderd kilogram ylang-ylangblommetjies word gebruik vir twee liter olie-konsentraat.
Dis ŉ eiland van geure en smake. Peper, vanielje, koffie, naeltjies. En dan is daar die be-rum-de Nosy Be rum.

Dis Nosy Iranja wat jou laat verbeel jy is Robinson Crusoe se niggie. Op die lemur-eiland, Nosy Komba, bekyk die Sifaka-lemurs jou uit die bome. Die gidse roep hulle maki-maki-maki en lok hulle met piesangs nader.

Daar is amper 60 soorte lemurs (spesies en sub-spesies) in Madagaskar, van die 25-gram pigmee muis-lemur tot die reuse Indri van 9,5 kg.

Op Nosy Iranja doen jy nét wat jy wil. Jy dobber in die louwarm turkoois water, bak in die son, koop van die tradisionele houtwerk en linne waarop groot skilpaaie geborduur is. Jy eet soos Crusoe op die strand. Hier is ŉ tafeldoek oor ŉ ‘tafel’ van sand, en die heerlikste visgeregte. Dis moeilik om jouself weer na die motorboot weg te skeur vir die terugvaart na Nosy Be.

Madagaskar is Afrika, Indië en Suidoos-Asië. Die kulture en gelowe (en ŉ paar dosyn bygelowe) is daar so vermeng soos die speserygeure – en die oliedampe van die stokou Renault 4’s – in die lug.

Captivating Morocco

Stella Neethling — Wed, 25 Jul 2018 19:01:52 +0000

Morocco. Just hearing the name evokes vibrant images of an ancient culture, romantic Moorish architecture, delicately spiced North African cuisine and wildly desolate landscapes. Morocco’s diverse natural splendour often surprises even the most seasoned traveller. Travelling through the hauntingly beautiful Sahara Desert dotted with Berbers towns and oases, the snow-capped Atlas Mountains and the endless plains fringed by the sandy coastlines of the Mediterranean Sea and Atlantic Ocean makes for an utterly wonderful bucket-list journey.

There are a number of must-see destinations in this fascinating country and the best place to start is Casablanca. This is a city for travellers who like to feel like a local, rather than a tourist, and who want to experience the present as well as learn about the past. Though not as atmospheric as other Moroccan cities, Casablanca is the best representation of the modern nation. To a romantic, Casablanca is a mythical place that exists in a dream inspired by the 1942 film starring Ingrid Bergman and Humphrey Bogart. In reality this is where money is being made, where young Moroccans come to seek their fortunes and where business is thriving.

An extraordinary journey made up of moments frozen in time. This is Fez. The spiritual heart of Morocco, it is the most complete medieval city in the Arab world. A visit here will see you exploring labyrinthine streets concealing ancient souks and iconic monuments, none more so than the exquisitely decorated Medersa Bou Inania. The most elaborate, extravagant and beautiful of all Merenid monuments, every room has beautifully sculpted ceilings and carved cedar beams as well as elegant marble floors. All the walls have been covered by handcrafted stuccos and even the spaces between columns have been decorated in this magnificently delicate art form. In addition, the medersa is the city’s only building still in religious use that non-Muslims are permitted to enter.

Set somewhat apart from the other medersas of Fez, the Bou Inania was the last and grandest built by a Merenid sultan, completed in 1357. It shares its name with the one in Meknes, which was completed (though not initiated) by the same patron, Sultan Abou Inan, but the Fez version is infinitely more splendid. Its cost alone was legendary – Abou Inan is said to have thrown the accounts into the river on its completion because “a thing of beauty is beyond reckoning”.

Travelling to western Morocco, there is so much to discover in the colourful chaos that is Marrakesh! Journey through narrow streets lined with fruit stalls, mounds of spices, intricately woven Berber carpets, leatherworks and ceramics. In the Djemaa el-Fna square, known by locals as “the heart of the city”, keen street-vendors, charismatic snake-charmers, street musicians performing lively songs, and flocks of tourists add to this magical assault on the senses.

The Sahara is the world's largest desert and stretches across much of North Africa covering over 9,000,000 square kilometers (roughly the size of the United States). No visit to Morocco is complete without spending a night here. The quietude and space of the Sahara is indescribable, the night-sky boundless (skies so crisp and clear that the stars seem close enough to touch) and the desert scenery otherworldly. A sunrise camel ride over its rolling dunes will probably be imprinted in your memory forever!

Live the Journey can assist you with incredible journeys of discovery to Morocco. Venture into this fabled land of myths and legends where a surprise lingers around every corner!

Peru: Wild landscapes and ancient wonders

Stella Neethling — Wed, 25 Jul 2018 18:44:56 +0000

Peru is the third largest country in South America. It consists of a variety of landscapes, including the world’s second highest mountain range, the Andes, deserts, beaches and of course the Amazon rainforest. Most people live along the coast of the Pacific Ocean where the capital, Lima, is located. Peru shares borders with five countries – Ecuador, Colombia, Brazil, Bolivia and Chile. It is a fascinating country sure to be on every intrepid traveller’s bucket list.

Peru’s earliest inhabitants date back to more than 13,000 years ago. Beginning around 1000BC, several societies developed in different parts of Peru, including the Chavín, Moche and Nazca. One of the most important Peruvian cultures was the Inca, who lived in Peru around 600 years ago. Their capital, Cusco, is still a major city today. The Incas also built Machu Picchu, a famous ancient city in the Andes. Today, Machu Picchu’s spectacular ruins are a popular site for tourists. The Incas thrived for centuries, before being conquered by the Spanish in 1532.

Other must-see attractions include the Sacred Valley, the once fertile homeland of the Inca Empire, as well as the mystical Nazca Lines. The lines are found in a region of Peru just over 370 km southeast of Lima, near the modern town of Nasca. In total, there are over 800 straight lines, 300 geometric figures and 70 animal and plant designs, also called biomorphs. Some of the straight lines run up to 55 km, while the biomorphs range from 15 to 356 metres in length. Difficult to distinguish on ground level, these lines really only come to life when viewed from the air.

Nearly half of Peru is covered by the world’s largest rainforest, the Amazon. Thousands of fascinating plant and animal species inhabits this mysterious humid verdure that is home to hundreds of Amerindian tribes, some of which may never have seen the outside world! A riverboat cruise is an absolute must as it offers fascinating glimpses into life along the Amazon River and its many tributaries.

Lake Titicaca is the largest lake in South America and the highest navigable body of water in the world. It is also, according to Andean belief, the birthplace of the sun. The Uros islands are a group of 70 man-made totora reed islands floating on the lake. Its inhabitants, the Uros tribe, pre-date Incan civilisation and continue to hunt and fish the plentiful land and waters they occupy. It is a place where time seemingly stood still.